Mustefa Abakeno - Washed

Mustefa Abakeno's name carries weight in Agaro. He helped form two of the region's cooperatives, and in 2018 became one of the first Ethiopian smallholders to hold a direct export licence — less than a year after the law allowed it. His washing stations now process coffee for more than 200 growers around Jimma.

This traditional washed lot came off his own trees and those of 36 neighbours. Delicately floral and properly sweet: candied citrus, sweet mango, and a body that sips like black tea.